For a long time Macau was barely on the world's map. Hong Kongers loved it for a taste of Europe at the weekend, Mainland Chinese loved it for the casinos all owned by Stanley Ho, and the Macanese - well, they dodged the triads and eeked out a living. Since the casino market was opened up to outside investment the SAR has changed almost beyond recognition. But there's no need to avoid it if casino's don't float the boat - here are some of the nooks and crannies that remind visitors they're in a historic destination.
Macau - Historic Sites, Nirvana Spa and Bungy Jumping
The façade of St Paul’s - is only the beginning of the historic sites. Take a breather with a view at the Corner Bar and then explore the surrounding narrow streets of wall-to-wall furniture shops, where bargain-hunters will have to haggle hard.
The Lou Lim Lok Garden is one of the places to witness how Asia gets up early, Macau’s oldies taking their morning constitutionals in fan dancing, tai chi and kung fu. Colourful costumes, boogie boxes blaring out Chinese music, and absolute focus first thing in the morning keeps them young. It’s seriously inspirational.
The Ole Protestant Cemetery is full of famous Macanese warriors. Graveyards may be spooky, but this one is quite sunny, next to the Casa Garden. In the middle of Macau’s main island, it feels surprisingly European while being unmistakably Chinese.
The Gaia Fort is a good excuse to stretch the old legs and take some exercise, the road winding up and up to the top of the hill, where canons still point over the water at the Motherland.
Nirvana Spa is away from the casinos, hotels and resorts. A neighbourhood day spa it is owned by Portuguese Cristina Lobo, a model turned therapist turned spa owner, whose alluring Balinese, Indian and Oriental rooms set the scene for some mind-melting, indulgent and most importantly, affordable treatments.
Bungy Jumping is all about losing the breakfast, rather than losing cold, hard cash. The A J Hackett jump at Macau Tower launches off the side of the white elephant of a landmark. It's de rigeur to scream all the way down.
Coloane Island village and Fernando's restaurant
Coloane Island village is a one-horse square of Lord Stowe’s egg tart shop and café, a colourful old church overlooking seafood eateries, and some mom-and-pop souvenir stalls of lurid hats. The view? It’s pure China.
Fernando's is an institution. For decades expats and Hong Kongers have spent the weekend ferrying straight to the infamous restaurant, devouring clams, roast chicken, tomato and onion salads and pitchers of sangria in the barn-like interior.
Taipa, Not Only Cotai
Taipa - is the middle island, and drew the short straw, the Cotai (Co-loane and Tai-pa) reclamation affecting its shores, its ambiance and its visitor numbers. But duck away from the neon and lose track of time within the old town’s narrow alleyways, where communities still congregate as if its still 1988.
Hiking – is a popular weekend idea before brunching. It’s barely believable but it’s possible to take to the hills in Coloane and go for a tramp. Surrounded by green, bird song and fresh air, it’s a totally different world within this surreal SAR.
Macau - The Old Fashioned Way
So, there's no need to succumb to the neon, the tinking of the one-armed bandits, the 24/7 daylight of the blackjack tables. In Macau there's plenty to do and see outside, the old fashioned way.
Catharine Nicol - Catharine Nicol travelled to Hong Kong to stay for four weeks in 1997. She's still there, loving every minute of living, travelling, ...
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